Saturday, 2 January 2010

A breakthrough in the fashion world

The styles, the names and the icons!
By Kat Nielsen

The first question to ask is, why was the 60's era the one in which fashion became a statement? What ifluenced this and what made looks so important? Back in the day, the daring fashion started out inspired by photography, film, musicals and pop art, ironic seeing as Andy Warhol himself was a pop artist, but also people being able to travel abroard allowed this multicultural inspiration. International air travellig grew cheaper and more comfortable in the early 60's and hours were continually reduced off travel times. It became much more common for the middle class aswell as the upperclass to go exploring the world. In the 1960s, more Australians began to travel internationally, particularly to America and Europe. For the first time, people from all parts of the world could gain experience of the cultures of other countries resulting in ideas, fashions, trends and technology from overseas flowed more easily into the different world societies.

The Styles:
Usually and most commonly seen was the mini dresses and mini skirt for the ladies, in 1966, designer Mary Quant set a mini skirt in production which was usually 6 -sometimes 7 - inches above the knees. Incorrect that she 'invented' this type of mini skirt, yet she took the designs and ideas by Courrèges from 1964 and made the skirts even shorter, this was an item of clothing aimed at a younger generation and Quant take the credit for giving a previous product a second debut. Only it was much more daring and very controversial. Was this part of a worldwide feminine movement?

Usually seen in the early to mid 60's would be 50's clean cut suits, neat dresses with sometimes white girly collars around the neck. What did change was the patterns and colours. Going from basic cream tones and a stylish feminine cut in the style and sense of Jackie Kennedy to much more provocative and out going dresses, skirts and feminine blouses. Another liberation going from almost innocent young lady to smart young girls with their rebellious sides is the introduction of tights which replaced the girdles, roll-ons and suspender belts. The idea of seamless stockings started the revolution of tights, yet it is for sure that one could not be without the other as no groomed girls would ever go out completely bare legged back then.
Tights in the mid-late 60's were often patterned with diamond, stripe, dots and many more motifs.The most popular and trendy colour of the era was brown with golden shimmer called American Tan, this especially in large trendy cities like New York, Paris and London. For a brief period of time the Fishnet tights, which we still see frequently today were also popular. Lurex glitter tights in gold or silver were a hit for festive times like thanks giving, New Year and the Christmas period.

Moving further down came the popular and highly acknowledged footwear of the 60's. An alternative to the stilettos were the dainty lower kitten heels, the pointy toe boots and heels made way and gave inspiration for the 1961 chisel shaped toe heels - usually seen in either plain black/brown, or with a detail suck as a broche. In 1963 came the almond toe which was usually and very frequently found in pastel colours. In 1965, along with the very short dresses came flat boots, sometimes with fur lining up the side of each boot. Over time this sort of boot came to above the knee.

Typical and trendy dresses of the time: The basic description
One of the trends coming from
the late 50's reaching into the mid 60's was the 'coat dress' which description wise is very forward, it is a coat shaped like a dress. Usually it goes above the knee's and flows bountfully whilst worn. Today it is still worn by celebrities such as Katie Holmes, who is here pictures in New York with her daughter Suri, Katie has also embrased the classic hairstyle and even the classic 60's Almond toe shoes in a very stylish mahogany red. Usually the coat dress was worn either with or without a skinny style sweatshirt or plain lingerie. As an assesory it was sometimes worn with a half belt on the back of the coat.

All female clothin was narrow shouldered and usually had the arm holes trimmed to reveal the shoulder joint.
The baby doll dress of 1966 were rich and flared into a tent shape, usually seen with trimmed arm holes or a halter neck. Mostly produced using transparent tulles, lace or chiffon,
laces of all types. (Broderie Anglaise to guipure) Crochet effects over coloured linings or light toned linings such as soft pinks, yellows, and soft blue were extremely popular in the mid 60's.
Black polo neck sweaters -made popular by the Beatles. This very same black polo neck sweater is seen several times in the film Factory Girl. The dresses were usually solid colours of red or purple -Checks of black and white or other colour combinations, Black and white was a 60's combination and was used in pop art dresses and block pieced dresses. Black patent accessories complimented all these combinations. One of the easiest ways to get the 60's look is to wear short little coloured gloves -real or fake leather, perhaps with fur detail at the wrist - with a hole cut out to reveal the back of the hand. The gloves have strong similarities in the way they look to golf gloves.

Must have assets of the 60's:
  • Gloves (coloured)
  • Knitted hand bag
  • Coloured bracelets although black & white is more suitable
  • Statement earrings - proper term "Chandelier earrings"

The names - The people who made fashion history

Italian born French clothing and interior designer Pierre Cardin created inventive designs for both genders during the 60's, this involved circular, shapes, triangles and squares, bold shapes usually set on a frame of a bold coloured dress or shirt as seen as an example of his work in the image on the right. Collarless jackets and thigh high boots became Pierre's trademark. He moved in 1945 to Paris, France were he then went on to study architecture. he was denied work at Balenciaga but
in 1947 he became head of Christian Dior's taeilleure atelier and went on to found his own house of fashio in 1950. He began with 'haute couture' in 1953 - some would say he founded the idea of fashion haute couture (High dress making - a dress made to order) despite it being from 1945.


André Courrèges was the 'true' creator of the mini skirt- although his version would be more in the style of a typical school uniform skirt, and futuristic colourfull clothes which were especially seen in the late 60's and the 70's. André Courrèges also brought us the go-go boot,flat white shoes and boots and established the triangle shaped 'shift' dress as the a defining for the 60's and would be a spot on Courrèges-esque ensemble and style. Since Courrèges was a high fashion label, it would be almost unobtainable forcommon folk/middle class people to purchase any of his clothes, mainly upper class and young celebrities could be seen wearing but his designs. known today as the 'high street' they had the same alternative back i the 60's for his designer clothing and footwear as the prices were far too demanding. A lot of today's fashionable clothing which can be bought in high street shop like new look and peacocks is Courrèges orientated and seen as a vintage 'fashion treasure' Pictured on the left is a full day suit for a woman by Courrèges from the mid 60's.

Mary Quant's designs seemed to make a major impact on the swiging part of the 60's although finding any of her original works is of great difficulty. What she was mainly famous for was being a trendsetter by taking something already existing and making it more popular than it was, much like Andy Warhol did, but she also made pop art and fashion a trendy collaboration, and along with her husband she opened her own clothes shop "Bazaar". Bazaar's best selling products were small white plastic or latex/rubber collars to brighten up black dresses or a black sweat shirt, black stretch stockings were extremely popular too. Quant decided to design her own line of clothes. Initially she intened on working solo but soon was forced to employ a group of sewers and tailors as the clothes she made sold out too fast. By 1966 she was working with 18 different manufacturers. Quant did not invent the mini skirt but took the credit for putting 'mini' in mini skirt.

Mary Quants style : How to

  • Mini/above knees
  • Bright coloured tights
  • Heavy dark make up
  • False eyelashes
  • Trendy bob haircut.
Having studied at the 'École des Beaux Arts' in Paris, Hubert Givenchy defines the 1960's refined vintage/classical style by designing and dressing it's most popular actor Audrey Hepburn, and President Kennedy's wife Jackie Kennedy -both on and off set. Givenchy's designs were used in Hepburn movies such as Charade, how to steal a million, Paris When it Sizzles and Breakfast at Tiffany's which he designed the "Little Black Dress" which Hepburn is usually pictured wearing on promo's, posters and in the pop art world. Both Jackie Kennedy and Hepburn were very classy ladies and Givenchy's designs were allowing girls to be girls. Without being too revealing or sexist, Givenchy gave women in all age's a chance to be feminine both when practical and when going out, which can greatly be seen on Mrs. Kennedy's wardrobe, by day she'd be looking very smart and lady like in a suit with her infamous 'pillbox hats' and by night she'd be wearing long gowns in satin and silk.


The icons: "When I grow up I wanna be like..."




Edie Sedwick


Twiggy

Audrey Hepburn

Marilyn Monroe

Liz Taylor

Mary Quant

The Beatles

Bob Dylan

Andy Warhol

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