Saturday, 2 January 2010

A breakthrough in the fashion world

The styles, the names and the icons!
By Kat Nielsen

The first question to ask is, why was the 60's era the one in which fashion became a statement? What ifluenced this and what made looks so important? Back in the day, the daring fashion started out inspired by photography, film, musicals and pop art, ironic seeing as Andy Warhol himself was a pop artist, but also people being able to travel abroard allowed this multicultural inspiration. International air travellig grew cheaper and more comfortable in the early 60's and hours were continually reduced off travel times. It became much more common for the middle class aswell as the upperclass to go exploring the world. In the 1960s, more Australians began to travel internationally, particularly to America and Europe. For the first time, people from all parts of the world could gain experience of the cultures of other countries resulting in ideas, fashions, trends and technology from overseas flowed more easily into the different world societies.

The Styles:
Usually and most commonly seen was the mini dresses and mini skirt for the ladies, in 1966, designer Mary Quant set a mini skirt in production which was usually 6 -sometimes 7 - inches above the knees. Incorrect that she 'invented' this type of mini skirt, yet she took the designs and ideas by Courrèges from 1964 and made the skirts even shorter, this was an item of clothing aimed at a younger generation and Quant take the credit for giving a previous product a second debut. Only it was much more daring and very controversial. Was this part of a worldwide feminine movement?

Usually seen in the early to mid 60's would be 50's clean cut suits, neat dresses with sometimes white girly collars around the neck. What did change was the patterns and colours. Going from basic cream tones and a stylish feminine cut in the style and sense of Jackie Kennedy to much more provocative and out going dresses, skirts and feminine blouses. Another liberation going from almost innocent young lady to smart young girls with their rebellious sides is the introduction of tights which replaced the girdles, roll-ons and suspender belts. The idea of seamless stockings started the revolution of tights, yet it is for sure that one could not be without the other as no groomed girls would ever go out completely bare legged back then.
Tights in the mid-late 60's were often patterned with diamond, stripe, dots and many more motifs.The most popular and trendy colour of the era was brown with golden shimmer called American Tan, this especially in large trendy cities like New York, Paris and London. For a brief period of time the Fishnet tights, which we still see frequently today were also popular. Lurex glitter tights in gold or silver were a hit for festive times like thanks giving, New Year and the Christmas period.

Moving further down came the popular and highly acknowledged footwear of the 60's. An alternative to the stilettos were the dainty lower kitten heels, the pointy toe boots and heels made way and gave inspiration for the 1961 chisel shaped toe heels - usually seen in either plain black/brown, or with a detail suck as a broche. In 1963 came the almond toe which was usually and very frequently found in pastel colours. In 1965, along with the very short dresses came flat boots, sometimes with fur lining up the side of each boot. Over time this sort of boot came to above the knee.

Typical and trendy dresses of the time: The basic description
One of the trends coming from
the late 50's reaching into the mid 60's was the 'coat dress' which description wise is very forward, it is a coat shaped like a dress. Usually it goes above the knee's and flows bountfully whilst worn. Today it is still worn by celebrities such as Katie Holmes, who is here pictures in New York with her daughter Suri, Katie has also embrased the classic hairstyle and even the classic 60's Almond toe shoes in a very stylish mahogany red. Usually the coat dress was worn either with or without a skinny style sweatshirt or plain lingerie. As an assesory it was sometimes worn with a half belt on the back of the coat.

All female clothin was narrow shouldered and usually had the arm holes trimmed to reveal the shoulder joint.
The baby doll dress of 1966 were rich and flared into a tent shape, usually seen with trimmed arm holes or a halter neck. Mostly produced using transparent tulles, lace or chiffon,
laces of all types. (Broderie Anglaise to guipure) Crochet effects over coloured linings or light toned linings such as soft pinks, yellows, and soft blue were extremely popular in the mid 60's.
Black polo neck sweaters -made popular by the Beatles. This very same black polo neck sweater is seen several times in the film Factory Girl. The dresses were usually solid colours of red or purple -Checks of black and white or other colour combinations, Black and white was a 60's combination and was used in pop art dresses and block pieced dresses. Black patent accessories complimented all these combinations. One of the easiest ways to get the 60's look is to wear short little coloured gloves -real or fake leather, perhaps with fur detail at the wrist - with a hole cut out to reveal the back of the hand. The gloves have strong similarities in the way they look to golf gloves.

Must have assets of the 60's:
  • Gloves (coloured)
  • Knitted hand bag
  • Coloured bracelets although black & white is more suitable
  • Statement earrings - proper term "Chandelier earrings"

The names - The people who made fashion history

Italian born French clothing and interior designer Pierre Cardin created inventive designs for both genders during the 60's, this involved circular, shapes, triangles and squares, bold shapes usually set on a frame of a bold coloured dress or shirt as seen as an example of his work in the image on the right. Collarless jackets and thigh high boots became Pierre's trademark. He moved in 1945 to Paris, France were he then went on to study architecture. he was denied work at Balenciaga but
in 1947 he became head of Christian Dior's taeilleure atelier and went on to found his own house of fashio in 1950. He began with 'haute couture' in 1953 - some would say he founded the idea of fashion haute couture (High dress making - a dress made to order) despite it being from 1945.


André Courrèges was the 'true' creator of the mini skirt- although his version would be more in the style of a typical school uniform skirt, and futuristic colourfull clothes which were especially seen in the late 60's and the 70's. André Courrèges also brought us the go-go boot,flat white shoes and boots and established the triangle shaped 'shift' dress as the a defining for the 60's and would be a spot on Courrèges-esque ensemble and style. Since Courrèges was a high fashion label, it would be almost unobtainable forcommon folk/middle class people to purchase any of his clothes, mainly upper class and young celebrities could be seen wearing but his designs. known today as the 'high street' they had the same alternative back i the 60's for his designer clothing and footwear as the prices were far too demanding. A lot of today's fashionable clothing which can be bought in high street shop like new look and peacocks is Courrèges orientated and seen as a vintage 'fashion treasure' Pictured on the left is a full day suit for a woman by Courrèges from the mid 60's.

Mary Quant's designs seemed to make a major impact on the swiging part of the 60's although finding any of her original works is of great difficulty. What she was mainly famous for was being a trendsetter by taking something already existing and making it more popular than it was, much like Andy Warhol did, but she also made pop art and fashion a trendy collaboration, and along with her husband she opened her own clothes shop "Bazaar". Bazaar's best selling products were small white plastic or latex/rubber collars to brighten up black dresses or a black sweat shirt, black stretch stockings were extremely popular too. Quant decided to design her own line of clothes. Initially she intened on working solo but soon was forced to employ a group of sewers and tailors as the clothes she made sold out too fast. By 1966 she was working with 18 different manufacturers. Quant did not invent the mini skirt but took the credit for putting 'mini' in mini skirt.

Mary Quants style : How to

  • Mini/above knees
  • Bright coloured tights
  • Heavy dark make up
  • False eyelashes
  • Trendy bob haircut.
Having studied at the 'École des Beaux Arts' in Paris, Hubert Givenchy defines the 1960's refined vintage/classical style by designing and dressing it's most popular actor Audrey Hepburn, and President Kennedy's wife Jackie Kennedy -both on and off set. Givenchy's designs were used in Hepburn movies such as Charade, how to steal a million, Paris When it Sizzles and Breakfast at Tiffany's which he designed the "Little Black Dress" which Hepburn is usually pictured wearing on promo's, posters and in the pop art world. Both Jackie Kennedy and Hepburn were very classy ladies and Givenchy's designs were allowing girls to be girls. Without being too revealing or sexist, Givenchy gave women in all age's a chance to be feminine both when practical and when going out, which can greatly be seen on Mrs. Kennedy's wardrobe, by day she'd be looking very smart and lady like in a suit with her infamous 'pillbox hats' and by night she'd be wearing long gowns in satin and silk.


The icons: "When I grow up I wanna be like..."




Edie Sedwick


Twiggy

Audrey Hepburn

Marilyn Monroe

Liz Taylor

Mary Quant

The Beatles

Bob Dylan

Andy Warhol

Thursday, 31 December 2009

Creative commons- Spitfire


By Jasmine
When we had researched Spitfire (our chosen band) we had found that it was quite tricky to find as it was on the creative commons website. This was disappointing as this site can only let you access bands songs and nothing further about their history. Other than if they have a social networking site such as MySpace, Facebook or Bebo, to let you listen to more of their music and even become fans.




Creative commons is a non-profitable organisation in which the user can add towards the world wide web (www) to build a unique individually creative site. As this organisation is legal, many people are able to upload and download music,images,videos etc for free. However, creative commons can also have its down points, as the following shows:



Disadvantages





  • May be expensive to download files, which will persuade the market to either get it elsewhere or from an illegal website where you can download stuff for free.


  • Creativity- Even though this word signifies being artistic, what exactly is artistic about these websites? The only thing which makes these websites 'creative' is the way we are working togther to produce new ways of seeing things. It does not allow you to change the colours of the sites or anything else technical. However, even though this sounds quite true, social networking sites are the only way you can change your backgrounds,change fonts, say what your doing etc. This is so that you can create an image to the viewers about what your personality is like.


Whereas, its advantages are...:

Advantages




  • Creative commons webite allows you to add media of your choice such as,images,videos,text,information,music and so on. These sites include, wikipedia,youtube and even social networking sites. These websites are all used so that people from all over the world can collaborate and create a unique way of seeing the media industry.




  • Creative commons allows you to access high quality sites so that you can enjoy your time on the internet throughout the day.



  • It can also be used effectively towards the music industry. This is because people can pay for the artists tracks to help them get into the download charts. Furthermore, people can upload their desired music videos onto such sites such as 'Youtube'. This is so that they can collaborate and share their own tastes of music to the world.


  • You do not have to be punished/ or fined for using sites. Whereas, if a user accesses certain sites which are illegal, they may have to pay an expensive fine, or in other serious cases, being prosecuted for creating the website.













Wednesday, 30 December 2009

Artwork 1 - Props

By Kathrine Nielsen:

First finished "artwork"
Having completed A-levels in fine art I know about the pop art movement and Andy Warhol, but what I tried was to combine chalk and scribbles in the style and sense of Jackson Pollock but keep in mind the idea of capturing the soul through a portrait. I've chosen to work with permanent marker and a 6b pencil as my tools, and I believe this is a modern twist and will convert the idea of the 60's artwork. It will suit our video as part of the background very well and also it add's to the theme of our song, and the modernisation we will try to achieve in best possible 60's style.


Edie Sedgwick: Andy Warhol's "Superstar"

Edie Sedgwick: A biography

by Emma Green



Edie Minturn Sedgwick was born on 20th April 1943 to a wealthy family of impressive heritage. Edie was raised on a 3000-acre ranch which was bought with money inherited by her mother. Family fortunes increased even further in the 1950s when oil was discovered on the ranch. Edie and her 7 brothers and sisters were privately educated.

Despite their prosperous lifestyle, Edie's upbringing was plagued with trauma. Mental illness run through the family with her father suffering bipolar disorder and mental breakdowns, and her mother being institutionalised. Her brother Bobby killed himself on the same day Edie was in a near-fatal car accident herself, and her other elder brother Minty committed suicide after his father's disgrace to him coming out as a homosexual. Bobby, Minty and Edie all were sent to the same mental institute, "Silver Hill" by their father for varous reasons. Edie was sent there after catching her father having sex with another woman in their house, and when she went to tell her mother, he accused Edie of being "insane" and had her sectioned. It is also rumoured that Edie was sexually molested by her father too, from a young age. She also suffered from bulimia, and at her most extreme, her weight whittled down to just 90 pounds (6 stone 6 pounds), so she was yet again institutionalised.

In the early 1960s, Edie moved to Cambridge, Massachusetts, while studing at Radcliffe College. Edie studied sculpture and spent her time partying and driving her Mercedes. At one of her therapy sessions, she met Chuck Wein, who was a bohemian that styled himself as an Edwardian dandy. After she turned 21, she went to live in New York, in her grandmother's 14 room apartment, and spent her nights at the top clubs and discotheques. Chuck joined her and was determined to turn Edie into a beautiful, social butterfly. He strived to be Edie's promoter as he saw a lot of potential in her, and he continously plotted at moving Edie up into high society. He knew she had a special quality, but because she was infamously disorganised and couldn't pull herself together, Chuck took over her entire life.

In January 1965, she was introduced to Andy Warhol. Chuck worked and lived at Warhol's "Factory" and so began bringing Edie on a regular basis. Edie started in appearing in Warhol's avant-garde films such as "Vinyl" as a last-minute replacement . Warhol took a shine to the socialite and was attracted to Edie because of her wealth, her family's fame, her stunning looks and her sparkling personality. He crowned Edie as the "Queen of the Factory" and she became an underground superstar. Her on-screen persona was compared to that of Marilyn Monroe and her association with Warhol built both of their reputations. With glamourous Edie in tow, Warhol would visit parties and gallery openings, and the duo generated reams of free publicity. Before Edie, Andy was deemed an outsider but with her, he was wooed and complimented by the rich and wealthy, and became very much a part of the art establishment.

Her newfound celebrity, howver, meant Edie started to get offers to leave Warhol and go into mainstream cinema. She was also being influenced by the pull of several musician lovers she was seeing at the time, including a rumoured Bob Dylan. Her and Warhol's relationship started to become strained in 1966 with her disatisfaction of her decreasing role in Andy's life. They also argued about money, because he only occasionally paid her for her work in his films, and she would reguarly pick up tabs for Warhol and other Factory members. Edie then stopped coming to the Factory all together and left Andy's crowd.

She decided to pursue her modelling again and she appeared on the cover of American "Vogue". But her career never took off, because the fashion industry were put off by people with drug problems, and Edie was badly addicted. She then turned back to her acting but her auditions were never "good enough". By the end of 1966, her celebrity had nearly diminished and she had spent nearly $80,000 on drugs, in 6 months. A typical breakfast for her was a saucer of speed. To support her habit, she stole antiques and art from her grandmother's apartment, and sold them for money. She also got into dealing, but got busted. In October 1966, Edie's apartment set on fire and she suffered terrible burns on her back, arms and legs.

She broke off her connections with the Bob Dylan music scene too, when she discovered Dylan had gone behind her back and married another woman. Her affair with another musician, Bob Neuwrith also ended because he could not deal with her erratic behaviour and drug dependancy.
For the last 4 years of her life, she had several on-off affairs with other drug addicts, and was yet again in and out of mental asylums and hospitals. She landed her most defining role in "Ciao Manhatten" where she plays a girl very similar to herself who was caught up in the fame and whirlwind of New York. This film was not finished until years later. The shoot of the film was anarchic, with many of the back-stage crew and actors highly addicted on cocaine and needing regular doses. By late 1968, Edie was an emotional and physical wreck; she could hardly walk or talk due to poor blood circulation in her brain.

In 1969, she met her future husband in a psychiatric ward and she married him on July 4th 1971. She managed to stay clean from the July to the October of that year, untill her doctor prescribed her pills to treat an injury and to help her sleep. On the night of November 15th 1971, Edie attended a fashion show, then a party afterwards where she was verbally abused by a guest who called her "heroin addict". She left the party early, and when her husband came to pick her up, she was heavily drunk. Back at her apartment, Edie took her meditation and went to sleep. When her husband woke the next morning, he found Edie lying next to him, dead. Her death was ruled as an Accident/Suicide.






Edie was only 28 years old.







Notes on the film - 'Factory Girl' by Director George Hickenlooper

By Kat.

Sitting down as a group, we watched the film from 2006, starring Sienna Miller as famous 60's icon Edie Sedwick who in 1965 dropped out of her artschool to move to New York, as an aspiring artist and model she attended many exhibitions at which young celebrity pop artist Andy Warhol (portrayed by Guy Pearce) is also attending.With a major promise of making Edie the star she always aspired to be, by comming to Warhol's Factory (Hence the title) to work for him as an actor, model and be his muse, Edie Sedwick was thrown into a whole different side of society, slowly losing her grip on reality due to her major use of heroin and her addiction to being the 'it' girl of the time. She ends up bankrupt, and must face the demons of her past with her fathers abuse and try to take her future into her own hands - little does it help that Warhol replaces Edie soon after she starts seeing folk musician Billy Quinn (Who is supposedly portraying Bob Dylan who had a brief relationship with Sedwick)


This is the official 2006 trailer for the film 'Factory Girl'



These are notes on effects, costume & make up, angles, camera positioning and general ideas which may be well suited or worth considering for our music video.



  • Opening shot of Edie running the streets of New York in tears, camera moves same pace as from another persons perspective. Camera catches all of Edie's movement including behind cars, as it films through the windows.

  • A controversial "nerdy" look- Shirt tucked into trousers, and a jacket, many brown tones and colours.

  • Andy Warhol was a Catholic and goes confessing his sins, which to others seem like minor issues for example about clothes.

  • Over shoulder shot of Edie getting ready to attend an exhibition in New York, brown flat, large framed mirro, her hair done up in a bun, she smokes.

  • Some attenders of the exhibition are very upper class looking and smug.
    Edie makes her entrance and is immediately surrounded by male attenders wanting to light her cigarette, take photos and film her.
    Split screen shots.

  • Andy Warhol wears a black suit, simple pattern shirt, scarf, black thick framed sunglasses and silver/white hair (very well tended to)

  • A long shot of Warhol getting interviewed with his famous Elvis pop art print in the background (black and white)

  • The factory has tinsel on the walls and floors, wall's are painted white, pieces or artwork, finished and unfinished haging and lying on floors.

  • "The factory is for people who are different" - Andy Warhol

  • Split screen shots - one half is strong colour, other is bold black and white, the black and white side resembles more serious issues.

  • Black and white flashbacks (sinister underlying tone)

  • Fur coats and big earrings

  • Edie's own artwork i watercolour based and charcoal drawings of peopole and animals.

  • Andy Warhol compares Edie and icon Marilyn Monroe, as Monroe was the 'it' girl, comparing the two would be because Warhol had such a strong feeling about his new muse Edie.

  • Handheld camera shots of Edie and Warhol in the park - poor quality.

  • Layered shot of Warhol and his artwork.

  • Group shot, all the Factory people are sat on a couch in the Factory - smoking

  • Edie is free of inabitations and gets undressed in public (A restaurant)
    The handheld camera is fuzzy almost out of focus.

  • Edie moves to a larger flat which she can not afford (The false success)

  • Studio/photoshoot shots of Edie doing professional modelling and it becomes a laugh with Warhol, it symbolises their close relationship.

  • Edie's make up: Black soft pencil liner above eyelids, false lashes, fake beauty mark.

  • Warhol's party: Balloons, colour, lights, tinsel.

  • Edie takes her first heroin shot, music and picture speeds up as Edie makes a fool of herself.

  • The TV screen shots are black and white - with an underlying soft blue tone.

  • "Billy" encourages Edie to pursue her own dreams and to work more on her own artwork.

  • Edie steals sun glasses at a garage sale - she doesn't get paid by Warhol

  • Her banker says Edie is going bankrupt.

  • Edie denies any knowledge about "Billy" and stands back once confronted with a news article with both of the pictured together.

  • After the revelation that Edie is having relations to "Billy" Warhol expresses jealousy.

  • "Whats there (points at chest) is as empty as your friends soup cans" - Billy Quinn

  • An ugly side to Warhols artwork appears when Edie is madeto perform in sexual activities against her will due to Warhols jealousy.

  • Shot of projector projecting a video onto a white wall, Warhol stands before it and casts a beautiful silhuette.

  • Andy Warhol traps Edie by giving her $50 - later he can say "But I already gave you money"

  • Billy Quinn confronts Edie a final timetrying to help her out of the Factory enviroment but Edie shouts back "I can't hate him!" Edie picks Warhol over her love.

  • Edie get's replaced.

  • Edie has lost grip of the situation and in a desperate measure confesses to her banker that she was sexually abused by her dad, banker gives her money which she spends on heroin.

  • A shot with handheld camera of Edie walking the streets barefooted, a mix between in and out of focus. This creates a feel of the insanity going on, and how Edie herself is falling apart.

  • Edie finds Andy Warhol in a restaurant with his new muse and confronts him, she attacks him.

  • Edie goes into rehab

  • Andy Warhol says "She used to be really beautiful, but now shes so ugly, why would anyone wanna be ugly?"

Notes on detail within costume:


  1. Zebra stripes

  2. Giraffe pattern

  3. Stripes

  4. Dots

  5. Fur

  6. Green, red, yellow, creamy tones and patterns for women

  7. Blue, bleen, black, white, grey, silver, scarfs, long coats, hats for men

  8. essential = False lashes

Tuesday, 29 December 2009

Fashion in the 60's

Fashion in the 60's by
Jasmine Underhill


As we believe that this type of music is very similar to the Beatles, we have decided to research what people from the 60's used to wear and what style they used to have. This is so that we can gather our thoughts on what costumes to use in our music video for "Do You" from Spitfire.

As you may know, the Beatles were a fashion icon in the 60's as they developed new ways of creating unique individual styles. Although they were most famous for their songs, they also became very popular for their hair cuts. The 'mop-top' cut was very strange at first, as many people from the 60's used to have a traditional hair cut so that their hair would be straight and neat. However, it then became a fashion icon as many young boys had copied their sense of style. Although we may not use this for our cast it would of been a good idea to possibly use their style of haircuts for our video.









As we are using ideas from 'The Factory Girl' to help us figure out what to do for our video. We have decided to use their 60's themed fashion in our own music video.
As Edie Sedgewick was inspired to become an artist/model we believe that this would be most suitable if we were to copy some of her looks. We had noticed that Edie had used False Eyelashes in most of her looks so that she looks elegant and far most glamorous to any other person in that decade. We will most probably use false eyelashes for Edie's character (Jodie) in the music video to resemble her trends as a "Factory Girl".



The image on the left is of Edie wearing a black mini dress to show off her figure. I had noticed that the use of earrings she had used was quite significant as part of her image. This is because they were very large and chunky to create a fashion statement. An item in which you would always catch Edie wearing is her cigarettes, not physically but she would always have one where ever she would go even if it was in her bed. It is known that she has been caught setting her room alight whilst falling asleep with her cigarette in her hand. Back in the 60's, cigarettes were often a norm in society, as many people had smoked as they believed that it was very fashionable as many celebs would have one. This would be a good idea for our video as I believe that it can make it more realistic as we are going to record scenes that may have been set in the 60's. Our cast e.g Jodie and Matt may use many cigarettes in the video, especially Jodie as she is replicating Edie Sedgewick. Luckily both of our cast members smoke already, so there wont be a problem if we ask politely. We will probably not let our 3rd cast member,Owen, replicating Andy Warhol have a cigarette in the video. This is because we have researched that Andy Warhol was against smoking, and that he didnt particularly want to damage his health.

I have added a video via youtube, showing a huge range of pictures of the styles Edie had created in the 60's......






Pre-production to-do list

Xmas Holidays:

All of the group

*Watch the film "The Factory Girl" together to get ideas for plot/aesthetics/characters/mise-en-scene.

*Collect and buy props, costume and makeup.

Kat

* Copy up film notes on costume/make-up/setting/characters

*Blog on 60's fashion

*Blog on 60's makeup

Emma

*Blog on Edie Sedgwick background and the person

*Blog on Andy Warhol, the person and artist and The Factory Movement

Jasmine

* Blog on information about the band, "Spitfire".
*Blog on 60's fashion (extra).

*Blog on the music genres, "Rock n Roll", "Punk" and "Folk" (their history and the artists of each genre)

*Risk assessment for shooting of the video (using electrical appliances, high heels, instruments, using a stage, etc.)

Emma and Kat

*Contact Ludlow Assembly Rooms for room hire

* Storyboard (ideas for video and actual storyboard with editing effects)

*Shooting schedule

*Contact cast again to verify they still want to do this project and to give them their shooting schedules.


First Week back at College (Jan 5th-10th)


All of the group

*Questionnaire (what people would like to see in a music video, favourite music genre, their favourite all-time music videos)

*Beat sheet

*Location shots (Ludlow Assembly Rooms, Old Ludlovian apartment, Train station, Ok diner, Streets, etc.)

*Producing art work and props

Emma

*Blog on 60's interior design and settings

Emma and Kat

*Final organisation of props and costume (borrowing cameras, borrowing from the drama department, borrowing instruments, etc.)